Discs And Pads

[Guest Dunny]

Hi all, go easy on me, first post.

 

Disc and pads have had it on the Galaxy, and I've been quoted

[Masked Marauder]

German Swedish and French will be a good source for the pads if you are near a branch, don't forget your car is the same as a VW Sharan!

 

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/

 

The calipers must be wound back in, your correct there, but a decent wind-back tool is not expensive.

 

http://trevor.dynip.com/images/windback.jpg

 

You will also need a brake-pipe clamp as you need to clamp the flexible pipe off and open the bleed nipple when you wind the caliper back in.

[Guest Dunny]

You'll have to excuse my ignorance but why do you have to wind them in ? On all the cars I've ever worked on you could just press the pistons back into the bores.

[Masked Marauder]

I am sure you can just press them back in as that is all the Ford special tool does, but the important thing is to make sure the piston is pushed evenly back in and a wind-back tool does this fine.

 

Make sure you clamp the pipe off and open the bleed nipple though or detritus in the fluid can block the ABS unit pistons.

[Guest Dunny]

Cheers. :rolleyes:

[seatkid]

On the rear brakes, the pistons have to be wound back, this is the self adjusting mechanism for the handbrake.

[Ivor]

My "Check disc pads" warning has been coming on for a couple of weeks, so today I set about changing the front pads (the rear were replaced last June).

 

I checked the outside pads last week, around 10mm remains.

 

I took off the wheels, and armed with instructions from this forum set about the job.

 

The inner pads have around 8mm left, so, since it looks like a big job removing the calipers, and it's cold, and I don't like the cold, I put the wheels back on to do it another day.

 

So, points to note from my little fiddle...

 

1. The front nearside inner pad is the only side wired with a sensor.

2. When do the sensors show "check pads"? Down to 8mm?

3. Does the whole caliper have to come off, it appears so from the instructions (remove the two bolts)

4. I took the easy way out and left it for another day mainly because I don't like messing with the ABS, does this come off with, and stay with, the caliper?

5. I know from the instructions not to push the caliper back in as not to damage the ABS without undoing the bleed nipple, is this the one at the front of the caliper facing the front of the car on the inside?

 

Ivor

[Topbloke]

question 3 Yes the caliper does have to come off

question 4 eh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! dont understand the question, just unbolt the caliper, the abs sensor does not have to be touched

question 5 if you have some thing to clamp the flexi pipe do so and then loosen the nipple as described (the one at the top and front of the caliper)then push the piston backslowly if you can find a small bore pipe of some kind that will fit the nipple this can be put into a can/jamjar and will cause a lot less mess with the excess fluid, when piston fully back, close nipple, fit new pads, refit calliper, important bit PUMP UP THE BRAKE PEDAL and dont forget to top up master cylinder with fresh fluid (that bit is the fun bit)

[Guest vr6galaxy]

It aint cold! get your sad excuse for a northern butt back outside first thing tommorow and finish the job! :D

with the two bolts removed the caliper will lift off # with it will come the inner pad as this is clipped into the piston, remove this pad and tuck the caliper up out the way so not to damage the flexi pipe!

remove the outer pad, using a line clamp to lock of the brake line undo the bleed nipple, the one at the front of the caliper (there's only one so you cant go wrong) now using the correct tool if you have one? push the piston back into the houseing, once it's fully retracted ttighten up the bleed nipple, locate the inner pad into the piston and stick in the outer one

now replace the caliper back over the disk and replace the bolts, tighten to 190NM or FT and now undo the clamp on the flexy line and bleed the brakes

replace the wheel, have a quick cuppa and start the other side :D

the ABS sensor is located to the rear of the hub so you wont need to touch it as it's not in you way

I still cant believe you said its to cold! and you a northener not a soft southern jessy :D

 

# there are four bolts at the back of the hub, the lower two hold the caliper mount onto the hub these are hex headed bolts, the two you want are the top most pair under the rubber caps? these should be allen key headed bolts

[Dave-G]

:) DUNNY,your gal is old enough to find ample suppliers of aftermarket discs and pads,just be sure to get them for "alloy" (16") rather than steels (15") :)

 

Also note that the front pads CAN just be pushed in, and the discs are also a doddle to change...a single screw locates the disc to the hub,rather than the wheel bearings found on some vehicles

 

They're only fully held in place when the wheels are bolted on

[Guest Dunny]

Cheers Dave

 

I've found a place that can sell me the lot for

[Guest ratherhaveanewone]

A word of warning on the discs, make sure you get the right size there are 288mm and 300mm discs that fit the 16in wheels; even if you have a new shape galaxy it might have the old running gear i.e. the 288mm discs, mine did its a new shape nov 2000. T

 

he discs are identical apart from the diameter, get it wrong and the brake calipers won't fit ! so measure first !

 

I got mine from local motor factors

[Topbloke]

[ferguscawley]

For a set of the 288mm discs and pads go to www.ebay.co.uk , item number 4536081109 Just

[Guest Paul Collins]

Had my front discs and pads delivered to work today -

[Marky]

Paul...as long as it is just the front calipers these can be 'pushed' back in,

remember to clamp the pipe and undo the bleed nipple this stops any

contamination returning to the abs controller but also make the piston

easier to push back into the caliper. The best thing I have used lately is

a woodworking speed clamp and they are about three quid from b&q etc

these are great as you can use them one handed instaed of try to hold

a caliper, windback tool, spanner etc

 

HTH

 

Mark

[Dave-G]

:rolleyes: did somebody mention woodwork? :P

[Marky]

Yes Dave...u know the speed clamps...u must have used them for your

.....errrrrr.......thingamyjigwotsits...... !!!

 

:rolleyes:

[Guest Paul Collins]

Concerning the wind back tool, I've also managed to do a deal with one of the senior chimps at work, I get all the assistance I need, including tools, he gets to borrow the tool for doing his neighbours car.

 

If he DOES the job for me, he keeps the tool :rolleyes:

[seatkid]

Regarding brake components, you should only buy original or genuine OEM parts, or in the case of friction parts, E90 approved parts. E90 pads and shoes are guaranteed perform to within plus or minus 15% of the original equipment specification. The manufacturer should also have ISO/EN accreditation.

 

Please don't put your and other lives at risk by skimping a few quid .....car radios yes... brake parts NO!

[Big Jim's Lad]

Got my discs and pads also lockheed for

[Guest coxy134]

hi

 

i always use www.buypartsby.co.uk

 

cheaper than eurocar parts and gsf

and there delivery is excellent

 

ebay is also a good source!

 

i used a g clamp to wind in rear caliper!

[curiousdad]

Dunny,

just had front discs and pads replaced @ Nationwide Autocentre

Discs

[Big Jim's Lad]

hi

 

i always use www.buypartsby.co.uk

I didn't know it but this is where I have always got most of my parts from, we know it as Sutton Autospares and are close enough visit in person saving on delivery charges! :lol: And they give you a trade discount for being cheeky.